Twilight at Mufidah Jusuf Kalla’s Gadang House
Once upon a time, on Friday, 21 October 2022, Doni Monardo, a member of the Board of Trustees of Indonesia Art Institute (Institut Seni Indonesia — ISI) Padangpanjang, gave a public lecture in front of around 400 students. The event took place at the Huriah Adam Performance Building. Huriah Adam is the name of a dance maestro born in Padangpanjang who died on 10 November 1971.
Having arrived the day before, a former three-star army general, Doni took the time to “go home” to Sungai Tarab, Tanah Datar Regency.
It was pretty special that we, Doni and I, stopped by Mufidah Jusuf Kalla’s gadang house in Nagari Tanjung Bonai, North Lintau Buo District, Tanah Datar Regency. This was my first time breathing the Lintau air. Mufidah is a much-respected senior figure in Indonesia. She is the wife of Jusuf Kalla, Vice President of Indonesia 2004–2009 and 2014–2019.
Dusk was just approaching when he pulled over to Mufidah’s ancestral land. A beautiful and elegant Minangkabau gadang house caught my eye.
Trend Setter
The main characteristic of the gadang house lies in the shape of the roof that curves sharply upwards resembling a horn. The Minang people call it gonjong.
Two gonjongs on the left, two gonjongs on the right, and one gonjong protrudes forward, giving off a majestic scent. Ornaments in the field of “many boards” (outer walls) are dominated by carvings of brown nuances.
From a relative of Mufidah, Syahrul Udjud, I received information that the first construction was carried out in 2003.
“Interestingly, Ibu (Mrs) Mufidah’s gadang house has finally become a trend setter,” said Syahrul, who was Mayor of Padang for two terms (1983–1993).
I have known Syahrul since the 1990s, when he was still mayor. At that time, as a journalist, I joined Siti Hardiyanti Rukmana Suharto’s entourage for a youth carnival there. We were treated with lots of durians at the house of the mayor of Padang.
As Syahrul calls the gadang house a trend-setter, of course there is a reason. He said that after the building was erected, many Minang people came there. In addition to looking closely at the beauty of the gadang house, not a few who later imitated it.
What is imitated? Mainly the use of the basement. Before 2003–2004, gadang houses were synonymous with those on stilts.
At the bottom, it was left blank. Even if it was used, it was usually for a warehouse. Meanwhile, Mufidah’s gadang house closes the bottom part tightly, and utilizes the existing fields into rooms.
“I slept there several times, in the basement,” said Syahrul. He added that apart from the rooms, it is used for the employees’ residence. They are the ones who manage and maintain the gadang house. “So it is very functional, without changing the architectural essence of the typical Minang gadang house,” he added.
Development Process
The idea for its construction emerged in 2001 when then-Coordinating Minister for People’s Welfare Jusuf Kalla (JK) and his wife Mufidah, together with then-Education Minister (late) Malik Fadjar visited West Sumatra. Syahrul also participated in the visit as Deputy Coordinating Minister for People’s Welfare.
During the visit, JK and his entourage stopped by the house of his wife’s extended family in Nagari Tanjung Bonai, North Lintau Buo District. At the location, JK and Mufidah saw a wide expanse of land. Then came the idea of building a gadang house.
Then-Tanah Datar Regent Masriadi Martunus (2000–2005) and then-Colonel (Mar) Anshar Miad (Mufidah’s younger brother) then made the house design.
Construction began in 2003. Syahrul Udjud recalled how JK and Mufidah were so detailed in following and paying attention to the process of building the gadang house. It included the idea of changing the space under the gadang house.
In early 2004, JK and Mufidah returned to visit West Sumatra. At that time, the Bugis-Minang couple together inaugurated the house. They then climbed the gadang house and stayed there.
Also in the gadang house, the customary authority confirmed the title of Datuk to the only son of the JK and Mufidah, namely Solihin Kalla. Since then, he has the title Datuk Rajo Panghulu.
In JK’s entourage, Rokhmin Dahuri, then-Minister of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries, who had a Minang wife, participated. Minang figures Azwar Anas also appeared, in addition to Buya Syafei Ma’arif and Anregurutta Kyai Haji Sanusi Baco, charismatic clerics from South Sulawesi.
Minang proverb
Mufidah was born to a Minang couple who were immigrants, hence she was born far away from where her parents were from.
Mufidah Mi’ad Saad, her full name, was born on 12 February 1943 in Sibolga, North Sumatra. She is the daughter of Buya Mi’ad (father) and Sitti Baheram (mother), a couple from Lintau Buo, Tanah Datar, West Sumatra who lived in Sibolga before moving to Makassar, South Sulawesi.
Even so, Mufidah’s family never forgot their hometown. Syahrul Udjud mentioned the Minang proverb which is still adhered to, “adat bersandi syarak, syarak bersandi kitabullah” which means “traditional custom is based upon religious teachings, and the teachings are based upon the Holy Book.”
This is the philosophy of life for the Minangkabau people. To them, it is a teaching that makes Islam the basis and/or guidelines for the behavior pattern in life. In a more complete form, it says, adat basandi syarak, syarak basandi kitabullah, syarak mangato, adat mamakai.
This philosophy plays a role as a fundamental framework of life of the Minang community, vertically with the Almighty Creator, and horizontally with fellow humans, or with other creatures in the universe.
Following that Minang philosophy, after the establishment of the gadang house, Mufidah also built a mosque, the Tanjung Bonai Mosque. The mosque’s location is not too far from the gadang house. It was inaugurated by JK, Datuk Solihin, and Mufidah in 2019.
According to Syahrul, the Minang people have this principle: if you are successful overseas, don’t forget to pay attention to the village. Mufidah realized this by building the gadang house and the mosque in Lintau.
Both are symbols of the above principle. If there is a clan or family matter, it can be discussed at the gadang house. If they have finished deliberating, or it is time for prayer, they immediately go to the mosque to pray in congregation.
Weaving School
Moreover, Mufidah also established a weaving school in Lintau. at the weaving school, mothers and young people from West Sumatra learn to weave. Skills in weaving become an additional source of family income apart from farming.
The people of West Sumatra are enthusiastic and appreciative of the establishment of the weaving school. Apart from the social and economic aspects, the establishment of the school has a great cause in preserving the weaving culture. This tradition has been around for centuries and is almost forgotten by the current generation.
Tourist attraction
Back to Mufidah’ gadang house in Lintau, its existence has inevitably become one of the “unofficial” tourist destinations there. Passers-by frequently stop in front of the house to take pictures and selfies. The beautiful house is indeed very instagramable.
So as you know, Tanah Datar has many tourist attractions. For example, Pagaruyung Palace, Singkarak Lake, Van der Capellen Fort, Tabek Patah Panorama, Talawi Waterwheel, Nagari Tuo Pariangan, Anai Valley Waterfall, and many more.
Tanah Datar is also known as the most developed “Nagari” (countryside), next to Koto Gadang in Agam Regency. From the Tanah Datar area, many political leaders were born since the pre-independence era.
“The first Indonesian doctor was from Tanah Datar, and his name is dr Saleh. He was the parent of Chaerul Saleh, the first Chairman of the Indonesian People’s Consultative Assembly, and had held various positions from Minister to Deputy Prime Minister during the Sukarno era,” explained Syahrul.
Other Tanah Datar figures include Ahmad Khatib Datuk Batuah, a cleric and Indonesian freedom fighter in the early 20th century.
Sasau Fish Culinary
Tanah Datar is also known as a Minang culinary paradise. Tanah Datar Culinary, in particular, is hunted by many tourists visiting West Sumatra. Some of Tanah Datar’s specialties include Pangek Simawang. It is a dish that uses Sasau fish, typical of Lake Singkarak, as the main ingredient.
Another dish is Didong Satay. At first glance, it looks like the famous Sate Padang or Padang Satay that you often see. However, the taste is much different. This culinary ingredient is made from ordinary beef sprinkled with onions on top. This satay is covered in a fragrant yellow sauce with a great taste.
You should not forget Dadiah, a special dish that uses whole milk as the main ingredient. Processed buffalo milk before being consumed, is put in a bamboo tube. Usually, Dadiah is served with Ampiang and palm sugar which are known to be healthy and tasty. When I stopped by Doni’s relative’s house, I had a chance to taste Dadiah. It tastes like cheese.
Of course, many other dishes will ‘pamper’ your tastebuds. It makes me want always to go back there, besides stopping at the Mufidah’s gadang house, and hunting for delicious Minang cuisine through the cool air of Lintau, Tanah Datar.
Rain lair
Talking about Tanah Datar, we suddenly remember Padangpanjang. These two areas are only 28 km apart. Not too far. No wonder they both have relatively the same topography. “Padangpanjang is a happy city,” wrote Ali Akbar Navis, author of the phenomenal Indonesian short story titled, ‘The collapse of our Surau’.
To quote AA Navis: “there is limestone that gives life, there are rice fields, there is a river that gives life, there is a railroad that gives life, even though sometimes the dead are crushed by it,” repeated Navis.
“In this small town,” wrote Navis, “the water flows too much. Wherever we go, women or girls are quick to provide us with drinks.”
As for Padangpanjang, Tanah Datar is also a small town at the foot of giant mountains. There is Mount Singgalang in the west, Mount Marapi in the east, and Mount Tandikek in the southwest.
For all of us to know, it turns out that not only Bogor is known as the “city of rain”, but also Tanah Datar. “We wonen hier in een regennest, Meneer!” said a Dutch traveler in the late 19th century. This means, “We live in a rain lair here, Sir!”
Earthquake Dance
A man of Minang blood whom I have known since he held the rank of Major in the 1997s, Doni served as Head of the 2019–2021 BNPB. He told me about a privilege of the gadang house. It is considered special because the right gadang house must be earthquake-resistant.
Alas, as the wheel of time keeps turning, gadang houses over 100 years old are starting to rot one by one. Some were successfully renovated, some collapsed and replaced with concrete house construction. Because of this, gadang house is rarely found in urban areas. However, you can find them in Nagari.
With its fundamental principles of establishment, Gadang houses inherit the sophistication of their ancestors in making earthquake-resistant house constructions. Because, Padang (West Sumatra) is in the subduction zone of the Indo-Australian plate under the Eurasian plate. This contributes to tectonic in the sea and on the mainland of Sumatra Island. No wonder if there are frequent earthquakes there. Rumah Gadang (which is correctly built) must be an earthquake-resistant house.
I delved further into more references about Rumah Gadang. Apparently, this traditional house building is built up from long poles. The buildings are large upwards but not easily collapsed by shocks.
The poles of gadang houses are not buried in the ground but rest on a solid, wide flat stone. It is covered with a pile of fibers at the junction between the base of the pillar and the stone. All connections at every meeting of the poles and large rafters do not use nails, but use pegs which are also made of wood.
As a result, when an earthquake shakes the earth, gadang houses will shift flexibly like dancing on the flat rock on which the pillar stands. Likewise, each joint connected by wooden pegs also moves flexibly.
It is true that the Minang saying, “alam takambang jadi guru”, nature is the best teacher.
Greetings from Lintau. (*)
